Whale Ho!

One of the oldest professions in New England, whaling, has thankfully been abolished; because now we get to watch in awe the graceful beauty they possess as they feed off Stellwagen Bank.

We went rather late in the season so we weren’t sure how cold it was going to be. But as it turned out, we had a nice sunny day with calm waters; a cozy sweatshirt and we were good to go.

If you’ve been reading our blog, you know we love boats, and tooting around Cape Cod Bay is half the fun of a whale watch. We climbed aboard the Dolphin VIII of the Dolphin fleet in Provincetown. We were nearly the last one to arrive and confirm our reservation, and the line of people waiting to get on the boat made it seem as if we might not even get on, or at the very least it would be so crowded as to be uncomfortable. Not the case. Even though the cruise was sold out, Dolphin limits the number of passengers so everyone gets a good seat and a good view.

The Dolphin Fleet vessels are specifically designed for whale watches. A second level sun deck and first level cabin offer sun and shade, while the galley offers snacks, drinks, beer and wine (and Dramamine for you landlubbers). There is also a naturalist on board who throughout the trip delivers information about the whales of Cape Cod Bay, and alerts when whales are surfacing.

We saw several whales on the trip - some from very far away, and some as close as 25 yards. We didn’t see any breaching this time out, but a lot of tail shots as they arched to dive deep. You never know what you’re gonna get, and some trips are better than others. Dolphin actually offers a free trip to paying customers if they didn’t see a single whale (which, thankfully, is not a common occurrence.) Once reaching Stellwagon Bank, we stayed for about an hour during which there was rarely a few minutes where we didn’t see any whales. Quite a successful cruise!

After pulling back in we enjoyed some oysters and beer overlooking a beautiful sunset over Provincetown Pier. A perfect ending to an afternoon at sea!

Sail Away from Falmouth...

We did just that for an impromptu day trip to Martha’s Vineyard. The reasonably priced Island Queen ferried us from Falmouth to Oak Bluffs under a sunny sky and over calm seas to one of the most visited summer destinations in the North East.
The boat ride alone was worth the trip. Awesome views of the island shoreline as well as the Cape shoreline accompanied us the whole trip across Vineyard Sound. The Island Queen is a 608 passenger ferry with 3 decks, one of them open air, several clean restrooms, and a refreshment counter mid ship. We chose to ride the upper deck for better views and the warming sunshine.

We landed in Oak Bluffs 35 minutes after departing Falmouth. A harbor full of every kind of boat you can imagine, and a pier lined with open air restaurants and bars greeted us with a promise of fun-in-the-sun-summer-livin’. We strolled around town for a bit and had lunch with an appetizer of littlenecks before deciding to take a tour bus to Edgartown. We would explore Oak Bluffs further upon our return.
A scenic 20 minute ride took us along the shoreline and back roads. Edgartown/Oak Bluffs Road has a two mile stretch of thin land separating the ocean from Sengekontacket Pond which was lined end to end with cars as well as pristine beach ocean side. Thousands of people took advantage of the perfect weather basking on the sand and splashing in the surf.

Edgartown is just what you expect from an old New England whaling town. Quaint, breezy tree lined streets, houses close together, and an ice cream shop on every corner. An old town hall with huge white pillars, picturesque side streets crowded with private residences and B&B’s that were once sea captain’s mansions. It’s like you’re walking through a post card. We popped into several shops along the main drag, which eventually led to the harbor. The auto ferry to Chappaquiddick is down here, so we hung around watching the ferry, and people jumping from pier pilings into the water. Several people were fishing from the covered picnic area on the pier. We devoured our ice cream while we watched motor yachts cruise in and out of the harbor.
When we got back to Oak Bluffs we went on a trek to find the Gingerbread house village. If you’ve never seen them, surely the name will conjure up images of what they look like; charming little cottages with ornate trim, vibrant colors, and tiny yet impeccably kept yards. My pace slowed as Lauren re-enforced the fact that we could not eat them. The day was winding down, and the boat schedule dictated our departure time. We could have rushed back for the 5:15 ferry, or relaxed on a deck overlooking the harbor sipping drinks while waiting for the 6:45. I’m sure you can guess which boat we took…
It was not an action packed trip, but a perfectly lazy day trip to a beautiful island. The bike trails, beaches, boating and boogie boarding will be for a longer stay down the road. We got home sun kissed, tired and happy.

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***Congratulations to Kristine M! She was the winner of our blog destination contest, with the excellent suggestion to visit the Cape Cod National Seashore! We will be doing just that, and blogging all about it! Thank you Christine! We're sending you a little token of our appreciation - two round trip tickets to Martha's Vineyard on the Island Queen! Enjoy! :)

It's a Keepah!

We had been trying to find the time to go clamming for a couple of months, and when we finally found a free Saturday morning we were really excited. We got up very early, which is rare for us on a Saturday, and made our way to Cotuit Harbor in Osterville. New to the clam hunt, we were optimistic as we parked at the boat ramp and walked to the muddy shore with our shiny new clam rake and basket.

We had no idea what we were doing, and felt even less confident when we noticed no one else was digging on shore. We did however see several people in the water up to their thighs with larger quahog rakes and floating baskets brimming with the large clam. Were we even in the right spot?

We decided to poke around the muddy flats right off the boat ramp. We looked for what we knew from when we were little – the tell tale sign of a clam just under the surface: little squirts of water coming from the mud, or at the very least little bubbles. I stabbed the rake in the general vicinity of the first squirt we saw only to find plenty of mud and stones. After several failed attempts, we decided to move along the shore hoping to stumble on a mine field of mollusks. All the quahog folks we happened upon were very friendly. A man and his young son were heading back to their car with a full basket when we asked him if he knew a good spot to dig for steamers. He pointed us to an area he heard was good, and we were on our way. When we got there we found even more rocks and a few weird worms. Worms don’t steam well, so we ventured off a little further after another quahogger said he thought there were some good flats down the way. They all mentioned that they hadn’t dug for steamers in years.

So we went down the shore even further. More quahoggers striking it rich encouraged us not to give up, keeping afloat our sinking optimism. But alas, more of the same. A few random oysters, which were big enough but out of season, a lot of crab holes and a few more salty worms were all we found. I had to be to work at 10, so we headed back toward the car, slightly defeated but not totally discouraged from trying again someplace else.

When we got back to the place the first quahogger suggested, Lauren said we should try just one more time. I had a few minutes so we found some little holes with bubbles coming up and started digging. Hey – look at that! I found one!

A tiny clam that fit too easily through the gauge. We had to rebury it neck up so it would survive and grow big enough for next time. But now we were hooked – surely there will be other clams in this area – this little one’s parents perhaps. We dug like mad, nearly wearing our fingertips down to the first knuckle, and finally – a keepah!! We could hardly believe it. A little more digging – and another one! We were master clammers now. We found some old oyster shells and used them to dig to save what was left of our fingers, and once we figured out how deep to dig we found a bunch – I think we found 11 in all before I really had to go, but that was gold to us.
It was quite a learning experience, clearly quahogs are more abundant - in the area we were in anyway, and digging for steamers is labor intensive. But it was well worth it when we had those 11 clams for an appetizer at lunch. They were delicious! Now that we’re expert clammers we will be out as often as we can. Even if we come up short, just being on the Cape Cod shoreline, seeing the sites, smelling the fresh ocean air...we still win.

Cape Cod Baseball League

root, Root, ROOT for the home team…

Even if you don’t have an actual `home team’ to route for, seeing a Cape Cod Baseball League game is really fun. We saw the Cotuit Kettleers play the Falmouth Commodores at Lowell Park in Cotuit.

Lowell Park is a picturesque home town field of dreams. Surrounded by Cape Cod woods, the perfectly manicured field is the back yard lawn every home owner aspires to. Two sets of bleachers sit behind the dug outs, and there is plenty of room around the fence to bring your own lawn chair. A press box and snack stand complete the atmosphere.

The Cape Cod Baseball League is world renowned for its level of talent. Considered a stepping stone to the majors, many players have moved on to become professionals. What this adds up to is some really exciting baseball.

As relaxed as a baseball game can be – once you hear the crack of the bat, players spring into action like a well oiled machine. Being so close to the field you can hear cleats digging into the sand, and the wiz of the baseball rocketing towards the first baseman’s mitt. Casual and hard-core fans alike will be thrilled and impressed.

Baseball is truly a multi-generational sport. Old men reliving their past are side by side with young boys dreaming of their future.

You don’t even have to watch the game to enjoy the experience. Kids with their own mitts play catch with their dad behind the bleachers, toddlers run around in circles entertaining themselves, and there’s even a radar gun tent to measure your fast ball. As one of the most fun Cape Cod summer things to do, it’s surprising to find that it’s free to get in! Donations, however, are welcome. Grandparents bring your grandchildren. They will love it!

I can’t even tell you who won the game. I found myself rooting for the play – a close call at first base, safe or out – a pop fly caught or finding a hole, any good play got my applause no matter the victor. It is a display of young talent and determination for the entertainment of young and old.

For schedules of a game near you, visit http://www.capecodbaseball.org/

Farmer's Markets

Want super fresh produce?

You could start a garden in your back yard: till the soil, put down fertilizer, plant the seeds, water everyday – weed every other, try to keep the local varmints out, turn the squash, support the tomatoes…surely we all have the time for that.

We’ve managed a few tomato plants over a few seasons. Four or five tomatoes was hardly worth the effort. Granted, we didn’t tend to them as needed, and they weren’t getting quite enough sun or water - or weeding. This season we’re trying banana peppers, on the deck in a pot. Surely we have the time for one pepper plant!
If you’re exhausted just thinking about the work it takes to grow fresh produce, do what we did – check out your local farmer’s market.

We went to the farmer’s market in Osterville on the Historical Museum grounds. It’s there every Friday and Saturday, 8am-12pm throughout the summer. Although a little smaller than some we’ve seen, there was still plenty to choose from.

These markets are not limited to just produce either. You will find local bread makers, jams and jellies, hand-made soaps and lotions, plants, a local lobster pound and a famous local fish smoker. All quality – all fresh.

All the folks manning their tables were super friendly, and will chat you up whether you buy anything or not. They are all very passionate and informative about their products, and often have samples for you to try. We tried some fresh snap peas right out of the pod and promptly bought 2 pounds. Steamed with a little salt and butter, they were better than any canned or frozen peas you can find.

There are several advantages to buying local products: We support the Cape’s economy, we help the environment by not shipping so much from thousands of miles away, we get fresh, high-quality products, and we meet some of our neighbors we may not have otherwise met.

We'd love to hear about your farmer's market finds! Here is a link to a website that lists the local Cape Cod farmer's markets: http://www.farmfresh.org/food/farmersmarkets.php?zip=02601

The Cape Cod Melody Tent

The Dirty Lowdown…

Last Saturday, we went with our friends Rob & Lynn to see Boz Scaggs and Michael McDonald at the Melody Tent. We’ve been to the Melody Tent several times, and it never fails that we have a great time at this Cape Cod institution.

The Melody Tent is only open for the summer season. February is a little chilly for an open air concert. The warm summer Cape air is a perfect setting to hear your favorite music. Easy to get to and small enough so that parking isn’t a nightmare. And in this day and age that ticket prices are actually reasonable.

The concert was great. We were in the very last row, but that’s like being in the front row of some big venues, except we didn’t have to look straight up to see the stage. There isn’t a bad seat in the house – no obstructed views (unless you sit behind Marge Simpson), and a rotating stage for a complete theater in the round production. One of the best things about the back row is that it’s closest to the beer…and bathrooms.

Boz and Michael M. did not disappoint, each doing a 75 minute set with all of the stuff you want to hear as well as newer and/or cover tunes. They both had fantastic backup bands and were generous in giving their female backup singers some solo action. This show kicked off their summer tour together.

During intermission we hung out on the crushed stone behind the t-shirt booth and ran into some more friends. We love living on the Cape because we know almost everyone by name. Bill and Jocelyn, our pals from the Paul Good fan club, were there among others we see a lot at the Island Merchant. A beer and a giant pretzel and we were ready for more.

The cool thing about the Melody Tent is that it’s not just for music. I’m sure that many of the professional wrestlers and comedians that take the stage couldn’t carry a tune in a bucket. There are often children’s matinee shows, and the Cape Cod Chowderfest happened the day after our concert. Plus it’s just cool to see a show in a tent – don’t know why. For top notch entertainment, go with your friends to a show at the Cape Cod Melody Tent. In fact, we’ll be back tonight to see Susan Tedeschi!

Visit www.melodytent.com to view their summer line-up, and send this message to your brother.

The Paul Good Band

The Paul Good Band. Go see them.

I could stop right there, but I won’t. One of the best local bands you will ever see on the Cape (or up and down the East coast for that matter) is the Paul Good Band. Consisting of 4 (and sometimes up to 7 or 8) seasoned, professional musicians, Paul Good and his crew play everything from jazz, classic rock to high end top 40: Steely Dan, Weather Report, Larry Carlton, Chick Corea, Santana, jazzy work ups of the Beatles, Gerry Rafferty – the list goes on. They make the songs their own with unique arrangements and blistering solos.

We saw them last Sunday playing their weekly gig at the Island Merchant on Main Street in Hyannis. They play Sunday nights from 7-10 (except the 3rd Sunday of the month). We’ve been going to see them for 3 or 4 years now – and we’ve been lucky enough to form friendships with the band members as well as several of their other fans. They have a loyal following here on the Cape, and we always see someone we know in the crowd.

The line up at the Island Merchant that night was Paul Good on guitar, Mike Dumas on drums and vocals, Rich Hill on bass and Freddie Boyle on keyboards and vocals. If you’re lucky, once in a while you’ll catch them with Vinnie Conga on percussion and Richie Labedz on saxophone. Everybody in the band plays in other groups and brings a wealth of experience to the stage.






I recorded a little bit of their show, so I’ll let the music speak for itself – just press play in the audio player below and enjoy.





Check out http://www.paulwgood.com/ for dates and info. If you’re looking for high quality music on Cape Cod, you owe it to yourself to see these guys. Paul Good Band? No no no…Paul GREAT band. (Sorry, I just had to.)